Our favorite day journey on the Italian Riviera is the hike from Camogli to San Fruttuoso within the Portofino Regional Park. The day consists of fairly seaside villages, a forest hike, good meals, a swim within the turquoise sea of an remoted bay, an historic abbey, and a ferry trip alongside the gorgeous Ligurian shoreline. It doesn’t get significantly better than this.
Our good day started with the eight.16am prepare trip from Rapallo to the fishing village Camogli, simply 9 minutes away. It’s a straightforward stroll from the prepare station right down to the waterfront the place we ate slices of focaccia within the heat morning gentle overlooking the harbour of pastel colored villas and fishing boats.
Camogli is way smaller than Rapallo and Santa Margherita with a quieter, laid-back vibe. The pebbly seaside is a extra nice place to chill out as there’s no busy street operating alongside the seafront like there may be within the bigger cities. We’d prefer to have had extra time to discover this cute village, however we wished to start out our hike earlier than it obtained too scorching.
From the seafront, we may see our subsequent vacation spot—the church of San Rocco perched disturbingly excessive above the cliffs on the wooded peninsula. No less than we knew what path to move, so we adopted the harbour street till we reached a parking zone and police station the place there are indicators for the path to San Rocco. The path marker is 2 purple dots and a purple ring—at San Rocco, these two trails will divide for different routes to San Fruttuoso.
We hiked for 30 minutes up many steps to San Rocco Church. Right here we discovered views again right down to Camogli, a restaurant for an espresso increase, and a water faucet firstly of the paths to refill your bottle.
The Path to San Fruttuoso
From San Rocco, the path divides and there are two choices to get to San Fruttuoso. The coastal path through the Batterie with its World Battle II bunkers has the perfect views however is more durable and solely advisable for skilled hikers. It features a part the place it’s important to use chains to navigate the slippery rocks above steep drop-offs. This path is meant to take 2.5 hours from San Rocco (though some folks report longer) and the path marker is 2 purple dots.
We had been scared off by some horror tales of that path and took the better inland path by way of Pietre Strette. The path is marked by a purple ring and is well-marked and straightforward to comply with. It’s presupposed to take two hours from San Rocco, however your entire hike from Camogli to San Fruttuoso (together with a break at San Rocco) took us two hours. We discovered it fairly straightforward (the steepest bit is as much as San Rocco) and in hindsight in all probability would have been advantageous on the coastal path.
Our hike took us by way of chestnut and olive groves and pine forest and was a mixture of ups and downs till we reached the center of the peninsula and lower down in the direction of San Fruttuoso. From there it’s 50 minutes downhill all the way in which alongside many switchbacks. The path is rocky, so first rate sneakers are wanted.
Arriving in San Fruttuoso is such a deal with. The hamlet consists of some eating places, a 10th-century Benedictine monastery of golden stone, and a 16th-century watchtower that overlook the small pebble seaside and vibrant turquoise sea. With the dramatic mountain backdrop, it feels secluded and much from the actual world, regardless of the crowds on the seaside.
We loved the view as we ate a tasty pesto lasagne lunch with native white wine at Da Giovanni after which hit the seaside. You may lease sunbeds and umbrellas or half the seaside is free. Floating within the clear water wanting again on the abbey and the mountain we’d descended was a particular expertise. You can even go to the monastery.
The Ferry Again to Rapallo
The one method to depart San Fruttuoso is on foot—again to Camogli or on to Portofino—or by ferry. Once we had been there in mid-September, the final ferry was at three.30pm, despite the fact that the net schedule stated 5.30pm, so it’s finest to get an early begin. Extra ferries are scheduled on weekends and in peak season (test the SMT schedule). You possibly can additionally take the ferry again to Camogli (test the Golfo Paradiso schedule). Keep in mind that the ferries do get cancelled if the ocean is tough. We referred to as them earlier than our hike to test they had been operating so we wouldn’t be compelled to hike out as effectively.
The ferry journey to Rapallo (€11, 30 minutes) was the right ending to an ideal day journey. The shoreline is spectacular, and we had been capable of get the perfect views of Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Rapallo from the ocean.
Camogli to San Fruttuoso Hike Map
For a extra detailed map, see Portofino Trek.
San Fruttuoso is likely one of the most particular locations on the Italian Riviera, and I extremely advocate you go to, even if you happen to take the ferry relatively than climbing in. Nothing beats the sensation of getting earned your lunch and swim after a hike, although, so if you happen to can hike it’s effectively price it. It actually was the right day.
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